Today I took a learn to belay class at the Mountaineers in Seattle. I learned how to use a belay device, and tie in and basic commands. The class was two and a half hours in length and it had 2 students per instructor. The class was specifically taught for top rope climbing only. I made two new friends in the class who will also be in my basic climbing class which is due to start next month. I had a great time.
Basic Climbing Commands:
1. On belay- The climber asks this of the belayer to ensure the belayer is tied in.
2. Belay On- The belayer says this back to the climber after checking that everyone's harness is double-backed, that knots are correct and that the belay device is threaded appropriately.
3. Climbing- The climber asks permission in order to start climbing. This is to ensure the belayer is ready for the climber to climb.
4. Climb On- The belayer say this to the climber to let them know they are ready for them to start climbing.
Once the climber reaches the top, the following verbalization should take place:
1. Tension- The climber says this to the belayer to let them know that they want all the slack to be taken out the rope.
2. Tension On- The belayer say this back to the climber after pulling the stretch out of the rope and locking it off.
3. Ready to lower- The climber says this to notify the belayer they want to come down.
4. Lowering- The belayer respond to the climber to let them know they are going to start lowering them down.
It's important to close out the commands at the end. Once the climber is back on the ground the following commands should take place.
1. Belay off- The climber says this to the belay to have them unhook the belay device.
2. Off Belay- The belayer should use this command after they thank the climber followed by removing the belay device.
Ancillary Commands: (These are commands that are not necessarily said on every single climb. These are only said if there is a need.)
Rock -- This should be yelled whenever anything falls. If you hear this, press your body against the wall and do not look up. Your helmet will provide some protection. Unfortunately, sometimes people yell other things such as "camera". Such unusual commands often result in inappropriate reactions causing the belayer or other people to not immediately attempt to get out of the way of the falling object.
Up-rope -- When a climber says this, they are asking that slack be eliminated from the system.
Slack -- The climber needs slack.
Watch me -- Climber will say this to a belayer if they are nervous and think they might fall.
Falling -- The appropriate command if you actually fall.
Tension -- Anytime a climber wants to sit back on the rope and rest they should use this command.
Falling -- The appropriate command if you actually fall.
Tension -- Anytime a climber wants to sit back on the rope and rest they should use this command.
For the purpose of my class we used a figure 8 follow through knot to tie into our harness. We also used an ATC belay device.
DISCLAIMER: I do not profess to be an expert. Complete knowledge of standard climbing equipment, techniques and practices is assumed. The following is NOT to be used or construed as instruction in how to belay or climb. For your safety and the safety of others seek professional, expert instruction before attempting these techniques.
Links:
Figure 8 tie-in knot
Mountaineers
